Forbidden Peak via the west ridge

This was my first forced bivy.

  • Date:
    2012/07/09 to 2012/07/11
    Elevation gain:
    5,615 feet
    Trip type:
    alpine climb
    USGS quad:
    Forbidden Peak
    Car-to-car:
    3 days
    • 5 hours 11 minutes ascending from Boston Basin trail head to our camp in Boston Basin around 6,200'
    • 8 hours 40 minutes ascending from camp to summit of Forbidden Peak
    • 6 hours 10 minutes descending from summit of Forbidden Peak to camp
    • 3 hours descending from camp to our bivy spot by Midas Creek
    • 53 minutes descending from our bivy spot by Midas Creek to the trail head
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  • Day 1

  • Hiking up the Boston Basin trail
    Hiking up the Boston Basin trail
  • Midas Creek, where we crossed via a sketchy snow bridge
    Midas Creek, where we crossed via a sketchy snow bridge
  • In Boston Basin, with Johannesburg Mountain in the background
    In Boston Basin, with Johannesburg Mountain in the background
  • The view from our campsite's kitchen
    The view from our campsite's kitchen
  • Boston Peak and Sahale Peak
    Boston Peak and Sahale Peak
  • We broke a tent pole.  We repaired it with two chock picks, duct tape, and bailing wire
    We broke a tent pole. We repaired it with two chock picks, duct tape, and bailing wire
  • Day 2

  • Hiking up to the climb the next morning
    Hiking up to the climb the next morning
  • The party ahead of us as they ascend the snow finger.  According to Cliff Mass, the distinct smog layer is from forest fires in Asia!  http://cliffmass.blogspot.com/2012/07/asian-fires-and-fireworks-smoke-up.html
    The party ahead of us as they ascend the snow finger. According to Cliff Mass, the distinct smog layer is from forest fires in Asia! http://cliffmass.blogspot.com/2012/07/asian-fires-and-fireworks-smoke-up.html
  • At the col at the top of the snow finger.  Eldorado Peak in the background
    At the col at the top of the snow finger. Eldorado Peak in the background
  • Ian on the summit of Forbidden Peak. I didn't get my camera out once during our ascent
    Ian on the summit of Forbidden Peak. I didn't get my camera out once during our ascent
  • Looking down the west ridge with Mount Torment in the upper right corner
    Looking down the west ridge with Mount Torment in the upper right corner
  • Johannesburg Mountain in the evening light
    Johannesburg Mountain in the evening light
  • Sahale Peak
    Sahale Peak
  • We are finally off the ridge and down the snow finger.  Forbidden Peak in the background
    We are finally off the ridge and down the snow finger. Forbidden Peak in the background
  • We hiked out by headlamp. When we got to Midas Creek, the snow bridge had completely melted out and the creek looked too scary to cross.  So we slept on the trail.  I was bummed about this because I had a late-morning flight and this delay meant I was going to miss it.
    We hiked out by headlamp. When we got to Midas Creek, the snow bridge had completely melted out and the creek looked too scary to cross. So we slept on the trail. I was bummed about this because I had a late-morning flight and this delay meant I was going to miss it.
  • Day 3

  • In the light of morning the creek didn't look so scary.  We just hopped across it
    In the light of morning the creek didn't look so scary. We just hopped across it
  • Back at the trail head!  My next challenge was to reschedule the flight that I missed because we were unable to cross Midas Creek
    Back at the trail head! My next challenge was to reschedule the flight that I missed because we were unable to cross Midas Creek

  • Copyright © 2020 Gabriel Deal.