Static Point: Lost Charms
Summary: A nice climb in a remote-feeling area. It felt more alpine
than cragging to me. Awesome, slabby rock. Some bolted belays, some
gear belays. Other than the belays, there was only one bolt on the
route (a rusty, loose bolt on the 5.9 slab below the Great Flake).
It took us 1.5 hours to hike to the base of On Line. Gilbert's trip
report describes the approach well: http://mountaineersforums.org/...
After searching in vain for the belay station at the top of Lost
Charm's first pitch, I finally yelled down to Lori that I was going to
go way right and build a belay from gear and brush. Thirty seconds
later I found the bolted belay station. The belay station is way
right, hidden by some vertical ledges.
I found the slab before the Bridge Flake to be more difficult than the
5.9 moves below the Great Flake later in the climb.
I didn't think the 5.6 finger crack was as "sweet" as Whitelaw said it
was. There weren't even that many places my fingers fit into the
I thought pitch five was awesome. I particularly enjoyed the 5.9
section and the Great Flake.
We made our last belay at the bolts above and right of the Great Flake,
right below the 5.10b/c variation.
From our last belay we rapped to two new bolts (placed June 2007) that
are 30+ meters above the top of the Pillar. Then we rapped to two new
bolts immediately above the pillar (this requires a double-rope
rappel). Then we continued to rap down the Pillar route. We were
never quite sure if our ropes were long enough for us to skip a rap
station, so we ended up making five raps in total.
Lori's pictures and route info here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2...
Lori rapping down from two bolts that are 30+ meters above the top of The Pillar
Lori rapping down The Pillar to the second Lost Charms belay station
Bushwack Peak and point 5110 from Static Point